A tale of two islands

At the end of World War II the USA was in control over several islands in Micronesia including Pohnpei, Chuuk, Kosrae, Yap, as well as Saipan, Palau, and the Marshal Islands (Majuroa, Kwajelan, etc). In the post war years the US Navy administered the region which was known as the Trust Territory. Eventually, the islands were given the opportunity to choose a direction for their future. The choices included becoming a permanent US territory, operating under a compact of free association, or complete independence.

Opinions differed among the islands as to what route to take and unity disintegrated. Pohnpei, Chuuk, Kosrae, and Yap, though each culturally and linguistically unique and separated by hundreds of miles of ocean from each other, together formed the Federated States of Micronesia and entered into a compact of free association with the US. Palau and the Marshal Islands each separately entered into compact agreements with the US. Saipan, along with two nearby smaller islands, formed the Commonwealth of the Northern Marianna Islands (CNMI) and became a U.S territory.

Wenonoa and I just came back from a 4 night stay in Saipan. What a difference from Pohnpei! Saipan is a true island paradise vacation spot. In fairness to Pohnpei, I must acknowledge that Saipan has certain geological and geographic benefits. Rather than the mangrove swamps that form the perimeter of Pohnpei, Saipan is ringed by beautiful (and public) sand beaches that lead into turquoise water. A walking/running/biking trail parallels the mostly flat beachfront road.

Saipan is also much drier. Pohnpei’s mountain peaks collect clouds and ensure an almost constant flow of rain (the interior of Pohnpei is said to average around 400 inches of rain a year). The humidity on Pohnpei can be stifling. Mold is an enemy that just won’t quit and the almost daily downpours beat up the roads of Pohnpei pretty badly.

Saipan is also closer to Asia. I’m told that it only takes 3 to 4 hours to fly from Japan to Saipan. This last point is important. Saipan has welcomed the tourism industry. Several large resorts are located near the coastline and recreational opportunities abound. Tourists can jet ski, parasail, be taken snorkeling and diving, and even enjoy spa treatments. Pohnpei lacks all of that.

Saipan does have it dark side. Since Saipan is technically part of the U.S., clothing manufacturers were able to set up garment factories, import workers from Asia, and put the ‘made in the USA label’ on the finished product without having to pay US federal minimum wages or be subject to OSHA regulations. The sweatshops have now all been closed down.

Other noticeable differences between the two islands included the general cleanliness of Saipan as compared to Pohnpei, the minimal number of dogs wandering the streets of Saipan, and the presence of a daily newspaper on Saipan.

I left Saipan wondering what Pohnpei would be like if it had become a territory instead of going the compact route. Would a different political structure have influenced the economic direction and outcomes (or lack thereof) that the island has taken? Would the people be better of or worse off?