Local Foods and Crafts

August 11

As you may recall from my early posts, I came to Pohnpei very interested in learning about and experiencing the local lifestyle. Except for an early fishing trip (as detailed in my March entry Fishing, which may be the funniest entry to date), it really hasn't happened.

Part of the reason is that I never really integrated into any local families and part of the reason is that much of the traditional ways have gone by the wayside. Its easier to buy a paper plate than to make a plate. As an American friend who learned how to make coconut milk remarked, "it was fun to do but very labor intensive. I'll probably go back to buying cans in the store and only make my own on special occasions."

Many ex-pats are interested in learning about the traditional ways of doing things and last month an enterprising Micronesian woman put together a Saturday afternoon class to teach us a few things. We learned how to make mar-mars which are a cross between a Hawaiin lei and a headband, weave plates out of palm froms, shuck and open a coconut, and cook breadfruit (a local starch) and whole fish on an open fire.

Wenonoa described the afternoon. Here is what she had to say:

Praise & Melian – two local Pohnpeian women – hosted a Pohnpei Day intended to teach Men Wei (White Men) how to live and eat like locals.

We were greeted with a freshly macheted coconut with a straw. Fresh coconut milk straight from the coconut is delightfully refreshing. After finishing our milk, we were shown how to crack the coconut by hitting the middle with the dull side of a machete. We really have to buy a machete – they are good for so many things. We then scooped out the coconut with our thumbs and happily ate it.

Next we were charged with making marmars. These are traditional flower head wreaths given to newcomers, guests, and those leaving the island. You begin with a circular, slender piece of plastic and, proceeding cautiously, wrap local flowers and greenery around the plastic using twine to hold it in place as you proceed around the circle. You can use any combination of flowers and greenery. Most of us Men Wei made some very bushy marmars – not bad, we were told, for our first time.

Then we cooked breadfruit. This is a large green “fruit” that comes from a tree. It tastes like a potato and is often prepared with grated coconut to sweeten it. As it tastes like a potato, one of my favorite veggies, I am very happy to eat it plain. You score the breadfruit – slightly opening the skin – making four longitudinal cuts and place the breadfruit directly onto the hot coals of an open fire. After about 30 minutes, the skin is blackened and the breadfruit is ready to eat. You then peel all of the blackened skin off and eat as is. I have been told that you can use this local fruit as a substitute for potatoes. It is supposed to be chock full of vitamins.

Next, having nothing to eat off of, we had to make plates. Using a local variety of palm frond, we wove a basket to use as a plate. We covered the woven plate with an additional layer of palm fronds.

Next we chose a fresh fish to cook over the open fire – we placed it directly on the coals. There were several varieties to choose from. One that I had was called bluefish but it wasn’t. A variety that Eric had wasn’t called bluefish but it actually was this beautiful iridescent teal color. After about 10 minutes, one side was done and we flipped the fish with local, long wooden tongs to blacken the other side.

We were ready to eat! Gathering our plates, we chose our fish, some breadfruit and some tapioca sweetened with green banana. Melian offered forks to us as she told us that locals wouldn’t use a fork. Feeling like locals, we declined the forks and dug in with our hands. All of the weaving and cooking had worked up an appetite.

I feel like I would be somewhat prepared if I was ever stranded on a deserted island.

Throughout the day, as we were learning native cooking and weaving, a local fellow was making secaw. This is the local drink which is said to have marijuana-like effects. I haven’t tried it. It is considered rude to refuse it if offered to you in ceremony; however, it is okay to pretend to drink it or ask someone to drink it on your behalf as an honor to that person.

Desert was fresh watermelon; according to Melian, fresh fruit is desert here. Locals don’t really have cakes, cookies, pies, etc. that they eat for desert.

As they afternoon waned and tiki torches were lit all around, a group of local women performed local, traditional dances for us. What a great day to be on Pohnpei!